This is the basic method for cooking fresh shelling beans (often called “shellies”), such as cranberry, borlotti, or Tongues of Fire. You can enjoy them just as they are, or use leftovers in grain dishes or soups like minestrone. This recipe is also a great base: try adding sausages and cooked rapini for a one-dish meal, or simmer the beans in rich vegetable stock with carrots and celery, then stir in long-cooked farro and puree for a hearty soup. A spoonful of pesto makes a wonderful finishing touch—just stir it in and savor this end-of-summer treat. Enjoy shelling beans while you can, as the season is short; before long, these fresh beans will be available only in dried form.
INGREDIENTS:
2-3 cups fresh shelled beans*
1 brown onion, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice
2 cloves garlic, peeled, de-germed, and sliced thinly
2-3 fresh sage leaves, or 1-2 tablespoons fresh marjoram, or 2 inches rosemary stalk
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste
Vegetable stock or water to cover by 1 inch
Olive oil as needed for cooking
1-2 tablespoons very flavorful extra virgin olive oil for finishing the dish
METHOD:
Heat a chef’s pan or heavy pot just large enough to hold the beans and liquid over medium heat.
Add enough olive oil to generously coat the bottom. When hot, add the onions and cook until softened and fragrant, but not browned.
Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. While it cooks, bruise the sage (or rosemary, if using) by sliding the flat of a knife along the stem or leaf.
Stir in the herbs, then add the beans. Pour in enough stock or water to cover the beans by about 1 inch.
Season with a pinch of salt and a generous grind of pepper, and bring to a boil.
Immediately reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until the beans are tender, about 30 minutes. The skins should be soft, and the insides creamy. Vigorous boiling will break the beans down and dilute their flavor.
Taste and adjust seasoning. The beans can be served immediately or cooled in their cooking liquid, which deepens their flavor.
To reheat, warm the beans gently in their cooking liquid or over low heat until hot. Before serving, finish with freshly ground pepper and a drizzle of bold extra-virgin olive oil (a big Tuscan style oil works beautifully).
CHEF NOTES:
Shelling beans: To peel, split open the pod and run your finger down the inside to release the beans into a bowl. This is a great task to do while chatting, watching a movie, or with kids—they often enjoy helping.
Variations:
With pork: Start the dish by cooking diced pancetta, prosciutto, or sliced Italian sausage. Once the fat is rendered or the sausage is browned, remove and drain. Pour off all but 1–2 tablespoons of the fat, continue with the recipe, and return the pork during the last 10 minutes of cooking.
With vegetables: Add diced carrot and celery along with the onions. Rapini also pairs well—sauté it with garlic, chop, and fold into the beans with sausage. Finish with lemon juice and olive oil for brightness.
As a soup: Cook beans with carrots and celery until very tender, then puree to a smooth, creamy soup. Serve with a drizzle of good olive oil, truffle oil, or with fricco (lacy cheese crackers) for an elegant touch. Add grains to make it a complete protein.
YIELD: Serves 4
