Instead of reaching for a can of commercially canned pumpkin, why not make your own delectable pie filling with fresh, locally grown squash from the farmers’ market? Homemade purée not only connects you to the season but also allows you to explore a world of unique flavors and textures that go far beyond the familiar orange pumpkin.
But here’s the real question: which pumpkins are best for pies?
Not All Pumpkins Are Created Equal
Pumpkins are squash — but not all squash are pumpkins, and not all pumpkins make good pies. To understand which varieties work best, it helps to know a little about the squash and gourd family. All pumpkins and squash belong to the Cucurbitaceae family. Within this group, pumpkins fall into three main species: Cucurbita pepo, C. maxima, and C. moschata.
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C. pepo: This species includes the bright orange-skinned pumpkin we associate with Halloween. While iconic, these field pumpkins are often watery and stringy, better suited for carving than eating. This group also includes gourds and many summer squashes.
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C. maxima: These are “pumpkin-squash” types, often more yellow than orange and without deep ridges. Popular members include Hubbard squash, kabocha, banana squash, buttercup, and turban squash. Many of these yield smooth, sweet flesh perfect for pies.
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C. moschata: Known for their tan or buff-colored skins, these oblong squashes (such as butternut and crookneck squash) are the workhorses behind canned pumpkin production. Their flesh is dense, creamy, and mildly sweet — ideal for baking.
Interestingly, the canned “pumpkin” used in most store-bought pie fillings isn’t made from the round orange pumpkins we decorate in October. Instead, it typically comes from varieties of C. moschata squash, chosen for their sweeter, drier, and more velvety texture.
Squash Pie? Yes, Please!
You have to admit, “pumpkin pie” sounds a lot more festive than “squash pie.” Still, many squashes make far better pie filling than carving pumpkins. Libby’s, the famous canned pumpkin brand, figured this out long ago and developed its own variety — the Dickinson squash — specifically for pie production.
But you don’t have to stick to what’s in the can. Our farmers markets are full of wonderful pie-worthy pumpkins and squashes. Here are some top choices:
BEST PUMPKINS (OR SQUASH) FOR PIES:
Sugar Baby (Sugar Pie) Pumpkin
Small, thin-skinned, and easy to handle, these 4–8 lb. pumpkins are dense, sweet, and finely textured. Their drier flesh makes excellent pie filling.
Rouge Vif d’Etampes (Cinderella Pumpkin)
This French heirloom is squat, bright orangey-red, and instantly recognizable. The flesh is silky, smooth, and reminiscent of canned pumpkin. It’s a chef favorite for soups, stews, and baked goods, and it stores well through winter.
Winter Luxury Pumpkin
A beloved pie pumpkin with netted skin, about 6 lbs. in size. Known for its velvety texture and sweet, rich flavor, it’s rated a “5 out of 5” by growers and bakers alike.
Pink Banana Squash
Huge and hard to cut (you’ll often see it sold in chunks), but worth the effort. Its flesh is fine-grained, sweet, and excellent for pies.
Dickinson Squash
The variety behind Libby’s canned pumpkin. These oblong, tan squashes can weigh up to 40 lbs. Their dry, dense flesh is ideal for canning and baking.
HOMEMADE VS. CANNED: WHICH IS BETTER?
There’s no denying the convenience of canned pumpkin. It’s consistent in texture, flavor, and moisture content, which means your pies are predictable and reliable. Recipes for pumpkin pie, bread, and muffins are often developed with canned pumpkin in mind, so substitutions with fresh purée can be tricky.
When working with fresh squash, you may need to:
- Drain excess moisture from watery purées.
- Adjust sweetness depending on the variety used.
- Experiment ahead of time, so your holiday pie doesn’t end up too soupy or bland.
Still, making your own purée can be incredibly rewarding. The flavors are often brighter, sweeter, and more complex. Keeping a cooking diary of your favorite varieties is a great way to track which squashes work best for your baking.
Canned pumpkin may be the safe and easy option, but exploring fresh squashes opens up a whole new dimension of flavor. Whether you choose a Sugar Pie pumpkin, a Cinderella heirloom, or a humble butternut, making your own purée brings depth and personality to your pies. After all, the holidays are about tradition, and what’s more traditional than turning fresh, local harvests into something truly memorable?
RECIPES: Find pumpkin recipes here!
