Spring at the Market: Chef Andrew on Asparagus

Each spring, the first bundles of asparagus arrive at the Aptos and Monterey Farmers Markets like a quiet announcement that the season has changed. At the Klein Family Farms booth, those bright green spears practically glow on the table — freshly cut, tender, and ready for the kitchen. For Chef Andrew, asparagus isn’t just a vegetable. It’s a signal. Spring has arrived.

Without a doubt, asparagus is one of the true harbingers of spring at the farmers’ markets. When those first bright green spears appear, you know the season has shifted.

Asparagus is wonderfully versatile. Grill it. Roast it. Steam it. Sauté it. Toss it into pasta or risotto. Lay it over a salad. Or simply serve it on its own with good olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. It doesn’t need much.

How to Choose Asparagus
When selecting asparagus, always look at the bottom of the bunch first. The cut ends should look fresh and moist — not dried out or shriveled. The tips should be tight and compact, not decayed or falling apart. And the stalks themselves should be firm, smooth, and vibrant.

Thick or Thin Spears?
There’s a long-standing belief that thicker spears are older and tougher. Not so.

After a conversation with Fred Minazzoli — who brings beautiful asparagus (among many other things) to market — I learned the truth. For the first three years of a plant’s life, all spears are thin. After that, the same mature plant produces both thick and thin spears.

After plenty of taste testing, I’ve come to prefer the thicker spears. They’re often more succulent and roast beautifully. Thin spears are lovely too — they just benefit from a slightly gentler, more moist cooking method to keep them tender.

Basic Steaming Method
To prepare asparagus, simply snap the stalk. It will naturally break where the tender part begins. For thick spears, lay them flat and use a sharp swivel peeler to remove the tougher outer skin near the base.

For pencil-thin to “normal” size spears (about three-eighths of an inch thick):

  1. Snap and trim the spears.

  2. Lay them in a sauté pan.

  3. Add enough cold water to come just below the tops.

  4. Cover tightly and bring to a boil over high heat.

  5. Once at a full boil, pour off the water, re-cover, and let steam for about 3 minutes.

They’re perfect at this point for serving hot.

For cold dishes, cook about 2½ minutes and immediately submerge in an ice bath to preserve color and texture.

For pasta or risotto, blanch briefly — about 1½ minutes — and finish cooking in the dish itself. It’s much easier to cut asparagus before cooking; once softened, they can easily mash.

Basic Roast Method
Fat spears are my favorite for roasting.

Peel the lower portion, then leave whole or cut on the bias into two-inch pieces. Drizzle generously with good olive oil and toss to coat completely.

Spread the spears on a heavy sheet pan with room between them. Crowding causes steaming — and we want roasting.

Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast in a preheated 400°F oven for about 15 minutes, until tender and lightly caramelized at the edges.

A Few of My Favorite Touches
Sometimes I add a splash of orange juice to the olive oil and let the asparagus marinate briefly before roasting.

Or — and this is a favorite — drizzle lightly with white truffle oil before roasting. Then, the moment the asparagus comes out of the oven, add just a few more drops while they’re still hot. The aroma that rises up is extraordinary.

Find fresh asparagus this month at the Aptos and Monterey Farmers Markets — and let spring begin on your plate.

RECIPES: Click here for asparagus recipes!

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