Some restaurants live on long after their doors close, remembered through favorite dishes and the enduring wish for just one more taste. For generations of San Franciscans, The Hot House was that kind of place.
Located at 750 Great Highway beside Playland-at-the-Beach, The Hot House welcomed beachgoers and neighborhood families from the early 1930s until Playland closed in 1972. Enchiladas and tamales were favorites, but the restaurant had a distinctly San Francisco personality: meals came with dark-baked sourdough French bread and butter, and spaghetti also appeared on the menu.
After Playland’s closure, owner Juan Faranda moved the restaurant to Balboa Street near 42nd Avenue, where it continued until his retirement in 1996. Its flavors lingered in customers’ memories, inspiring home cooks to recreate the dishes they loved.
The original recipes remained closely guarded family secrets. This homemade version pays tribute to that remembered sauce—a rich, smooth, tomato-based blend generously seasoned with cumin, oregano, and chili powder.
It makes a substantial batch, perfect for a family gathering or for dividing into smaller portions to freeze. Spoon it over cheese, chicken, or beef enchiladas, letting the sauce settle around the tortillas before finishing with cheese and baking until bubbling.
Hot House–Inspired Enchilada Sauce
INGREDIENTS
½ cup butter
½ cup neutral cooking oil
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 (15-ounce) cans tomato sauce
2 tablespoons chili powder
3 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
3 tomato paste cans of water, about 2¼ cups*
1 (28-ounce) can Las Palmas chili sauce
*Chicken or beef broth may be substituted for the water, depending on your enchilada filling.
METHOD
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter with the oil over medium-low heat.
Whisk in the flour until smooth. Cook for 2–3 minutes, whisking constantly, without letting the mixture brown deeply.
Stir in the chili powder, cumin, and oregano and cook briefly, just until fragrant.
Gradually whisk in the tomato sauce, adding it in portions and whisking until smooth after each addition. Stir in the tomato paste, water or broth, and Las Palmas chili sauce.
Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot, until the sauce is thickened and the flavors have blended, about 15–20 minutes.
If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little more water or broth. It should be smooth and pourable, thick enough to coat the enchiladas while still spreading easily in the baking dish.
Taste before adding any salt, as the canned sauces and broth may provide plenty.
Ways to Enjoy It
Classic cheese enchiladas: Fill softened corn tortillas with cheese and finely chopped onion, cover with sauce, and bake.
Chicken or beef enchiladas: Use shredded cooked meat, then finish with sauce and your favorite melting cheese.
Enchilada casserole: Layer tortillas, sauce, beans, cheese, and cooked vegetables or meat.
Sauced burritos: Spoon over filled burritos, sprinkle with cheese, and bake until hot.
COOK’S NOTE: Chili powder here means a seasoning blend intended for dishes such as chili or enchiladas. If using pure ground chile, its heat and flavor may differ considerably.
MAKE AHEAD: Cool promptly and refrigerate in covered containers for up to 3–4 days, or freeze in meal-size portions for up to 3 months. Reheat gently, adding a splash of water or broth as needed.
For more restaurant history, read “Streetwise: Savoring the Past” by Frank Dunnigan at the Western Neighborhoods Project.
